Newsletter - January 13, 2010

The Jewelry Crafter

A newsletter for the home jeweler

This newsletter will be published every 2 weeks, and will include hints and tips for your jewelry business. Any feedback or comments about the topics presented here are always appreciated. Click here to e-mail us.

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Cameos - Did You Know...?

by Mary Harvey

What exactly is a cameo? According to Websters Dictionary, a cameo is “a carving in relief on certain stratified gems or shells so that the raised design, often a head in profile, is usually in a layer of different color from it’s background.” In this issue, we will give you some interesting facts about cameos.

Cameo carvings date back to ancient times, but the word “cameo” first appeared in the 13th century, and was used to distinguish a carving in relief, versus an “intaligo”, which is carved into the stone. Many different types of materials were used for these carvings, including agate, sardonyx, and shell. This week, we will focus on shell cameos.

Shell cameos were very popular in France and England in the 19th century. They are still popular today. Most cameos are carved from either the Cassis Rufa (carnelian) shell, or the Cassis Madagascariensis shell (sardonyx). The carnelian shell produces carvings from a light orange to a deep brown-orange color, while the sardonyx shell looks more like sculpted marble.

Most of today’s shell cameos are produced in Italy, and are carved by hand, without the use of power tools. The carver chooses a piece of shell with uniform thickness and begins to sketch on the lighter parts of the shell. He then uses a V shaped graver and slowly begins to peck away at the shell, giving the design a rough outline. Then he moves to finer gravers until the cameo is completed. The finished piece is then soaked in olive oil, then washed in soap and water, and finally polished with a hand brush. A hand-carved cameo can take anywhere from a few hours to several days to complete, depending on how intricate the design is.

Cameos that are carved by masters show very intricate detail. If you look at an apprentice-carved cameo and a cameo carved by a master carver, there will be more “life” in the master carved cameo. The carving will look more real, and have a lot of character. Generally, the carved lady will have adornments, like a necklace or earrings, and there will be more expression in the face. Many of these cameos are signed by the artist, and command a sizable price. Apprentice carvers usually have to serve a 5 year apprenticeship before being considered a Master Carver.

Some companies mass-produce cameos. In a type of production line, where one person carves, another finishes, and a third polishes, up to 20 cameos can be produced per day.

These interesting facts, and more, can be found in the book Cameos, Old and New by Anna M. Miller. It is a wonderful book, detailing everything you ever wanted to know about the different types of cameos, cameo history, carving techniques, and how to distinguish old cameos from new ones. 

Next Issue: Other types of cameos.....

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